Adding central cooling to a house that never had it is a routing problem before it is an equipment problem. The load calculation is straightforward. Finding a path for supply air, return air, a refrigerant line set and a condensate drain through a building that was framed without any of them is where the project is actually decided.
What the Building Type Usually Allows
| House type | Typical duct path | The constraint that appears |
|---|---|---|
| Chicago bungalow with an unfinished attic | Attic trunk feeding ceiling registers on the upper floor | Attic insulation depth and the need to keep ducts inside conditioned space where possible |
| Bungalow with a finished attic bedroom | Limited; often a small high-velocity system or a ductless head for the attic room | No accessible chase between floors |
| Two-flat or three-flat | Separate system per unit, with the coil at the existing furnace | Line set routing between the unit and an outdoor location that belongs to that unit |
| Foursquare with a basement furnace | Existing basement trunk extended, upper floor served by wall chases | Chase space competes with plumbing stacks already in place |
| Post-war ranch | Existing gravity or forced-air duct system reused | Duct sizing that suited heating alone may throttle cooling airflow |
The Return Air Question
Older forced-air systems were built for heating, and heating tolerates less airflow than cooling does. Many of these houses have generous supply runs and a single undersized return in a hallway. Cooling makes that shortage visible immediately: the blower cannot draw enough air across the coil, the coil runs cold, and capacity falls just when it is needed. Adding return capacity is often the single most effective part of the project, and it is easy to leave out of a quote.
Where the Outdoor Unit Can Sit
The condenser needs clear air on all sides, a stable base, service access and a location that does not put a fan against a neighbouring window. On a Chicago lot that usually means a side yard or a rear pad. Gangway installations are common and workable provided clearances are respected, though a unit boxed in by fencing gives up capacity because it recirculates its own discharge air. Distance from the indoor coil also matters, since line set length affects charge and, past a point, capacity.
Electrical and Condensate
- A dedicated circuit and outdoor disconnect are required, and older panels frequently have neither the space nor the capacity.
- Knob-and-tube wiring anywhere in the path changes the electrical scope substantially and needs an electrician.
- Condensate from a basement coil normally needs a pump, since gravity drainage is rarely available below grade.
- An attic coil needs a secondary drain pan with its own float switch, because a leak there ends up in the ceiling below.
When Ducts Are Not the Answer
Some houses simply cannot take ductwork without losing rooms to chases. Attic conversions, rear additions, sun rooms and enclosed porches usually fall into that group. In those cases ductless mini-split installation reaches the space without a duct path at all, and hybrid arrangements where a ducted system covers the main floors while a head handles the attic are common. Where a full ducted system does fit, the project runs through central AC installation, and any comfort split between floors afterwards is a zone control conversation.